Safe Brightening Ingredient – Vitamin C

Vitamin C, also known as L-Sodium Ascorbate, is widely found in fruits and vegetables. Regarding the discovery of Vitamin C, there is a not-so-beautiful legend: It began in the 16th century during the great nautical era. Because the crew was on the sea for a long time and there were no fresh fruits and vegetables to eat, many people died of scurvy. For example, the crew of famous navigators such as Magellan did not escape this disease. It was discovered that the Columbus fleet in the New World had also been plagued by scurvy. It was not until the 20th century that scientists discovered that the long-term lack of fruits and vegetables led to the lack of Vitamin C in the body and led to scurvy.

Vitamin C is high in citrus, pomegranate, papaya, strawberry and other fruits. The latest discovery of Vitamin C in acerola cherries is as high as 1215~3024mg/100g, which is an excellent source of natural Vitamins. The advantages of Vitamin C are Strong reducer has a very important and extensive role. In particular, it can scavenge active oxygen free radicals and promote the production of antibodies in the body. It plays a very important nutritional health and beauty effect in human body anti-aging and brightening.

The brightening mechanism of Vitamin C

First of all, there are many factors that determine the condition of our skin, such as genetics, sun exposure, endocrine hormone levels, etc., but generally speaking, the brighten level of the skin mainly depends on the content of melanin in the skin.
Unlike most known brightening compounds that inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, Vitamins can reduce dopaquinone to dopa, block the oxidation chain produced by melanin, thereby inhibiting the formation of melanin (note that it is reduction, it is to put the substance that was meant to become melanin back into its original form).

The structure of Vitamin C

It can be seen from the structural formula that Vitamin C is an unsaturated hydroxy compound with strong reducibility.
Vitamin C plays a role in many very important redox reactions in the body, including melanin-related biochemical reactions.
On the one hand, it can interact with the active site of tyrosinase to reduce dopaquinone to dopa and reduce the formation of melanin.
On the other hand, it can also reduce the melanin that has been produced, which can be said to be a two-pronged approach.

Cell test

Melanocytes (B16 Melanoma Cells) Experiment

Melanocytes are dendritic cells that synthesize and secrete melanin. Using Vitamin C derivatives (10 mmol/L ascorbyl glucoside) can significantly reduce the production of melanin (right).

In vivo test

This is the originator of Vitamin C applications, a paper published in 2005 by the American SkinCeuticals Laboratory. Everyone knows that ultraviolet rays irradiate the skin, it will cause inflammation and produce erythema and other sunburn manifestations. Applying Vitamin C products (C+E and C+E+FA groups) to the surface of the skin will cause erythema to be much lighter than not applying Vitamin C (CONT and VEH groups).

It shows that Vitamin C products have a significant effect in preventing UV damage. Sun exposure is also one of the main reasons for skin darkening, so long-term use of Vitamin C will greatly help skin brightening.

However, Vitamin C is the most unstable Vitamin (Vitamins A, B, D, E, K, etc.). It is extremely unstable in aqueous solution and can be quickly oxidized to dehydroascorbic acid in the air. It becomes light yellow to varying degrees; it will rapidly degrade when exposed to heat, light and heavy metals, which limits its application. Therefore, only the modification of Vitamin C to obtain Vitamin derivatives can be used stably in cosmetics.

Common Vitamin C derivatives

At present, common Vitamin C derivatives in the cosmetics industry include Vitamin C phosphate magnesium salt, Vitamin palmitate, and Vitamin C glucoside. Although these Vitamin C derivatives can be stably added in cosmetics, the brightening effect is still worse than that of Vitamin C itself. However, considering the powerful antioxidant brightening effect of natural Vitamin C, even if it is Using Vitamin C derivatives, the brightening effect is also worth looking forward to. And because it is a natural source and an indispensable ingredient in human metabolism, the safety of Vitamin C is also one of the first choices among many brightening ingredients.

What About Oral Vitamin C tablets?

Many people think that since Vitamin C can whiten, wouldn’t it be possible to eat more Vitamin C tablets to achieve the whitening effect? Ideals are beautiful, but reality is…

Because I graduated from medical school, many of my classmates are doctors. I heard from them that some patients with urinary stones need to be treated every year, among them, it is caused by taking a lot of Vitamin C tablets. Because the metabolite of Vitamin C is oxalic acid, long-term overdose of Vitamin C will cause the oxalate in the urine to increase sharply and form stones.

In fact, fresh vegetables and fruits are the best sources of Vitamin C, and they also contain other Vitamins. Different Vitamins work synergistically to achieve better results. As long as there is no shortage of fruits and vegetables in a normal diet, there is no shortage of Vitamin C in the body, and there is not much need to take Vitamin C orally.

According to the recommendations of the the Japanese Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare and other authoritative organizations, in order to prevent people from getting sick due to lack of vitamin C, it is recommended that each person consume 100mg of vitamin C per day. This dosage is generally enough to eat fresh fruits and vegetables daily.

And if there is a physical disease that requires oral Vitamin C, you need to follow the recommended dosage given by the doctor, and do not increase the dosage without authorization.

And a large amount of Vitamin C supplemented orally, due to the influence of the intestinal transport mechanism, only a small part can be obtained biologically and is active in the skin.

Therefore, if you want to achieve a brightening effect, it is recommended that you directly use skin care products containing Vitamin C.

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